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How to Grow Nasturtium

Tropaeolum majus

Perennial

In mild or frost-free gardens, nasturtiums persist as evergreen or semi-evergreen perennials, trailing over walls, banks, and fences year after year. They need no feeding — poor soil gives the best flowers. Cut back hard in late winter if growth becomes leggy, and new shoots appear quickly. Edible leaves, flowers, and green seedpods provide a peppery harvest almost year-round. Still attracts blackfly, making it a valuable companion plant near vegetables.

Yearly Lifecycle

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Jan
Dormancy
Feb
Dormancy
Mar
Spring Growth
Apr
Growing
May
Flowering
Jun
Flowering
Jul
Flowering
Aug
Flowering
Sept
Flowering
Oct
Flowering
Nov
Growing
Dec
Dormancy

Care Essentials

Don't feed — poor soil produces more flowers. Rich soil produces all leaves.

Watch For

  • Blackfly (use as a trap crop)
  • Cabbage white caterpillars
  • Powdery mildew in late summer

Companions

Beans, Fruit trees, Tomatoes, Roses

Pet Safety

Cats: Non-toxic
Dogs: Non-toxic
Source

Care Requirements

Light

Full sun to light shade

Flowers best in full sun but tolerates light shade. More shade means more foliage, fewer flowers.

Watering

Light watering — drought tolerant

Water lightly and infrequently once established. Drought-tolerant. Overwatering promotes foliage over flowers.

Fertilizing

No feeding — poor soil preferred

Do not feed. Nasturtiums flower best in poor, lean soil. Any fertiliser shifts energy to leaf production.

Pruning

Hard prune February, deadhead through summer

Cut back hard to 10-15cm in late winter. Remove leggy or frost-damaged stems any time. Deadhead to prolong flowering.

Growing Tips

Starve for flowers

Never feed perennial nasturtiums. Poor, free-draining soil produces masses of flowers; rich soil gives only leaves.

Hard prune in late winter

Cut back all growth to 10-15cm in February. Fresh shoots appear within weeks and the plant stays compact.

Use as a living mulch

Let trailing stems cover bare ground beneath fruit trees or along fence lines — they suppress weeds and attract aphids away from crops.

Pests & Diseases

Pest Black Bean Aphid (Blackfly)

Identification: Dense colonies of black aphids on stems, leaves, and flower buds, sticky honeydew, sooty mould

Organic treatment:
  • Squash colonies by hand or blast off with water
  • Encourage ladybirds, lacewings, and hoverflies
  • Remove heavily infested shoots and dispose of them
Chemical treatment:
  • Pyrethrum-based contact spray (rarely needed on a trap crop)
Pest Cabbage White Caterpillars

Identification: Large ragged holes in leaves, green-yellow caterpillars with black markings

Organic treatment:
  • Hand-pick caterpillars and eggs
  • Accept some damage — perennial nasturtiums recover quickly
Chemical treatment:
  • Rarely warranted on ornamental plants
Disease Powdery Mildew Erysiphe cruciferarum

Symptoms: White powdery coating on leaves, especially in late summer. Leaves yellow and become distorted.

Treatment: Remove badly affected leaves. Improve air circulation. Cut back congested growth.

Prevention: Space plants well. Avoid drought stress. Grow in full sun with good airflow.

Spacing & Planting

Plant spacing 45 cm
Row spacing 60 cm
Mature height 60 cm
Mature spread 200 cm

Perennial nasturtiums spread vigorously via trailing stems. Allow generous space or grow against a wall, fence, or bank where they can cascade freely.

Try our spacing calculator →