How to Grow Paulownia
Paulownia tomentosa
Plant in full sun in any well-drained soil. Paulownia is extremely fast-growing and tolerates poor conditions. Protect flower buds from late frost in cold areas. Can be coppiced annually for dramatic oversized foliage instead of flowers.
Yearly Lifecycle
Care Essentials
Rarely needed once established. Young trees benefit from a balanced feed in spring for the first 2-3 years. Coppiced specimens appreciate a nitrogen-rich mulch in spring to fuel rapid regrowth.
Watch For
- Honey fungus
- Frost damage to flower buds
- Wind damage to large leaves
- Paulownia witches' broom virus
Companions
Hostas, Ferns, Brunnera, Hellebores
Care Requirements
Light
Full sun essential
Full sun is essential for vigorous growth and flowering; plants in shade produce poor flowers and leggy growth.
Watering
Drought-tolerant once established
Water deeply and regularly throughout the first two growing seasons to encourage deep rooting.
Fertilizing
Rarely needed on fertile soils
Apply a nitrogen-rich mulch (e.g. well-rotted manure) around coppiced stools in spring to fuel rapid re-growth.
Pruning
Prune in late winter while dormant
Coppice to near ground level every 1-2 years for ornamental foliage; leave unpruned for flowers.
Overwintering
Hardy to -15 C once established
Protect young plants (first 2-3 winters) from hard frost with fleece or thick mulch. Flower buds are the most frost-sensitive part.
Growing Tips
Coppice or Flower — Choose One
Coppicing produces enormous leaves (up to 60 cm) but sacrifices flowers; choose your management style deliberately.
Protect Flower Buds from Late Frost
Flower buds form in autumn and are vulnerable to spring freezes; protect them with fleece in cold regions.
Extremely Fast-Growing
Grows 3–5 m per year when coppiced; site carefully to avoid shading neighbours.
Precocious Flowering
Blooms appear before the leaves emerge, giving a spectacular spring display even on bare branches.
Pests & Diseases
Pest Leaf Miner
Identification: Larvae tunnel inside leaves, creating pale winding trails visible on the upper surface. Rarely fatal but disfigures foliage.
- Remove and destroy affected leaves promptly to break the life cycle
- Encourage natural predators such as parasitic wasps
- Apply a systemic insecticide as a last resort in severe infestations
Pest Aphids
Identification: Clusters of small soft-bodied insects on new shoots and leaf undersides, causing distorted growth and sticky honeydew.
- Blast colonies off with a strong jet of water
- Encourage ladybirds, lacewings, and parasitic wasps
- Apply insecticidal soap or neem oil spray if colonies persist
Pest Vine Weevil
Identification: Adults notch leaf margins; larvae feed on roots underground and can kill young plants, especially those in containers.
- Apply pathogenic nematodes (Steinernema kraussei) to moist soil in late summer
- Check under pots and gritty mulch for adult beetles at night and hand-pick
- Use vine weevil biological controls as a preventive measure for containerised specimens
Disease Honey Fungus Armillaria spp.
Symptoms: Sudden wilting and dieback. White mycelial fan sheets under bark near the base are diagnostic.
Treatment: No chemical cure; remove and destroy infected plants including as many roots as possible. Improve drainage.
Prevention: Choose resistant species if replanting the same spot. Avoid waterlogged soils.
Disease Witches' Broom (Phytoplasma) Candidatus Phytoplasma spp.
Symptoms: Dense clusters of stunted shoots, distorted flowers, and general decline. Spread by leafhoppers.
Treatment: No cure; prune out affected branches well below visible symptoms and sterilise tools between cuts.
Prevention: Control leafhopper populations. Remove severely affected trees to prevent local spread.
